Introduction

Is your controller aiming moving on its own? Did your character start to run in other directions when you tries to run straight? You may be having analog stick drift on your PS5 controller.

This guide details how to repair the stick drift issue in a DualSense PlayStation 5 controller.

Like all controllers, PS5 controller drifting issues are caused by physical damage, simple wear, tear due to regular use, and gunk or grease (Yes, your sweaty hands), This guide details how to fix the PlayStation 5 DualSense Controller V2 stick drift. This guide only applies to controllers with gunk or grease that causes stick drift.

Yes, opening up a controller sounds like a drag, and it is much easier when you get a new one. However, repairing your controller not only saves you $70+ bucks but also reduces E-waste. Besides you don't need lots of knowledge to fix stick drift, my guide provided a step-by-step repair. Just follow my guide and your favorite controller can last a couple more years.

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    • This controller is the black version, but this guide applies to every CFI-ZCT1W model.

  2. Here is a video demonstrating how bad the controller stick drift was before the fix.
    • Here is a video demonstrating how bad the controller stick drift was before the fix.

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    • Disconnect and power down your controller before you begin.

    • Insert an opening pick underneath the middle trim at the right bottom of the controller and pry it up to release the clips that secure it.

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    • Slide a pick along the edge to release the clips securing it to the case.

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    • Slide the pick along the lower-left edge release the clips.

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    • This is how the controller looks when all the clips are released.

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    • Use your fingers to lift up the bottom edge of the middle trim.

    • Watch out for the two pieces that are hidden underneath the touchpad.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between L1 and L2.

    • Pry upward against L1 to remove the L1 button.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between R1 and R2.

    • Pry upward against the R1 to remove the R1 button.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 6.4 mm screws behind the L1 and R1 buttons, as well as the two 6.4 mm screws that secure the bottom corners of the lower case.

    • You will have a total of four 6.4 mm Phillips screws. Make sure not to lose any of them.

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    • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to unclip the two clips on either side of the headset jack.

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    • Slide the spudger along the edge to release the clips that secure the rear case.

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    • Same as the other side, slide the spudger along the edge to release the clips that secure the rear case.

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    • Remove the rear case.

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    • Use tweezers or your fingers to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.

    • To prevent damaging the wire, grip the white connector, not the wires.

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    • Use tweezers to disconnect the upper and lower microphone cables.

    • Use the pull tabs to disconnect the cables. Don't pull on the cables themselves.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 6.4 mm screw that secures the battery bracket.

    • Remove the battery bracket.

    • At this point, you will have a total of five 6.4 mm Phillips screws.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip the touchpad ribbon cable, and pull it out of the motherboard.

    • Use the pull tabs to disconnect the cables. Don't pull on the cables themselves.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the right trigger ribbon cable.

    • Use the pull tab to disconnect the cable. Don't pull on the cable itself.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the left trigger ribbon cable from the motherboard.

    • Use the pull tab to disconnect the cable. Don't pull on the cable itself.

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    • Make sure you have disconnected the four ribbon cables from the motherboard before moving on to the next step.

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    • Gently push the joysticks to separate the motherboard from the case.

    • The motherboard and the case are still connected through 4 soldered wires. Take care not to strain them.

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    • Use your fingers to pull the joystick covers straight up and off.

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    • Use a spudger to pry the drifting joystick potentiometer slots open.

    • Pry open the potentiometer slot gently or you will damage the slot.

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    • Use tweezers to remove the wiper.

    • Try to keep the slots down to about only 60o, completely prying it open will damage the slots and they will not be able to close.

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    • Repeat the previous step for the other potentiometer.

    • Try to keep the slots down to about only 60o, completely prying it open will damage the slots and they will not be able to close.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the wiper.

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    • Dampen a cotton swab with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol.

    • Flip the wiper to the other side and use the damp cotton swab to rub off any gunk or grease.

    • Repeat this step for the other wiper.

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    • Use a cotton swab damp with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol clean the inside of both of the potentiometer slots.

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    • Put the cleaned wipers back into their respective potentiometer slots.

    • When reinstalling the wiper, make sure the curved prongs is at the top.

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    • The remainder of the guide details reassembly.

    • Use your finger to push and close each slot.

    • Make sure you hear a "click" when you close it.

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    • Reinstall the joystick covers.

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    • Put the motherboard back into the case.

    • Make sure these 4 cable are on top of the motherboard.

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    • Use tweezers to set the touchpad cable in the slot.

    • Use your finger to push it back in.

    • Push gently to prevent breaking the ribbon cable.

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    • Use tweezers to put the trigger cable in the slot, then place the tweezer on top of the side of the cable and push it down.

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    • Use tweezers to put the other trigger cable in the slot, then place the tweezer on top of the cable and push it down

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    • Use a pair of tweezer to insert the lower microphone cable the cable into its slot.

    • Push the cable down.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to reinstall the 6.4 mm screw that secures the battery bracket.

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    • Insert the upper microphone cable.

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    • Plug in the battery cable.

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    • Assemble the rear case.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two 6.4 mm screws behind the L1 and R1 buttons, as well as the two 6.4 mm screws that secure the bottom corners of the lower case.

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    • Put the L1 button cover back in.

    • Press it down and until you hear a *click*.

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    • Put the R1 button cover back in.

    • Press it down and until you hear a *click*.

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    • Reinstall the middle trim.

    • These two highlighted piecse need to go under the touchpad.

  46. Here's the testing again; see the difference?
    • Here's the testing again; see the difference?

Conclusion

If you are still having problems after following all the steps in this guide, your controller probably has another issue.

Please check out other iFixit repair guides, such as replacing the entire Joystick.

Hope you find this guide helpful and may your controllers last forever!

Alvin2325

Member since: 20/03/24

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