Steam Deck OLED Screen Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 11

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen (or display) on your Steam Deck OLED.

Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your device.

You'll need replacement screen adhesive to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Step 3

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the screen for one minute.
You may also use a hair dryer or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the device, as the screen, battery, and plastic frame are all susceptible to heat damage.

Step 4

Apply a suction handle to the top left corner of the screen, as close to the top edge as possible.
If your display is badly cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, you can pull using very strong tape instead of a suction cup. If all else fails, try supergluing the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 5

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) to avoid damaging the screen panel, ambient light sensor, or sensor cable.

Step 6

Pull up on the nub on the back of the suction handle to remove it from the screen.

Step 7

As you slice through the adhesive securing the screen, note the following:
Along the top and bottom edges, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) to avoid damaging the sensors, sensors cable, or screen cable.
Along the left and right edges, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm (~1/5 of an inch) to avoid damaging the screen panel.

Step 8

Rotate the pick so its flat edge is between the screen and frame.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) along the top edge.
Insert another pick in the top left corner.
Slide the pick toward the power button to separate the adhesive securing the top edge of the screen.

Step 10

Rotate the pick so its flat edge is between the screen and frame.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Heat the right edge of the screen for one minute.

Step 12

Don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm (~1/5 of an inch) along the right edge.
Insert another pick just below the right thumbstick.
Slide the pick to the bottom right corner to separate the right edge adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Heat the bottom edge of the screen for one minute.

Step 14

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) along the bottom edge.
Insert another pick in bottom right corner along the bottom edge.
Slide the pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Grip the two picks along the top edge.
Pry up to lift the top edge of the screen away from the frame until you can grab it.
If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter and check for missed sections of adhesive. If you're using a hair dryer, use it to lightly heat the stuck sections of adhesive.

Step 16

Be gentle with the screen, as straining its cable may damage the socket on the motherboard.
Flip the screen over the bottom edge of the frame.
Prop up the screen with a small box or book roughly 2.5 cm (~1 inch) thick.
If you don't have a box or book nearby, hold the screen in this position for the next two steps.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the locking flap on the outside edge of the screen ZIF connector.
Don't touch any of the small surface-mounted components around the connector.