North Fork
wa?ahhpY'
North Fork is located in California
North Fork
North Fork
North Fork is located in the United States
North Fork
North Fork
Coordinates: 37°13′47″N 119°30′34″W / 37.22972°N 119.50944°W / 37.22972; -119.50944
CountryUnited States
StateCalifornia
CountyMadera
Area
  Total32.28 sq mi (83.6 km2)
  Land32.24 sq mi (83.5 km2)
  Water0.04 sq mi (0.1 km2)
Elevation2,638 ft (804 m)
Population
 (2020)[3]
  Total3,250
  Density100.8/sq mi (38.9/km2)
Time zoneUTC-8 (Pacific (PST))
  Summer (DST)UTC-7 (PDT)
ZIP Code
93643
Area code559
GNIS feature IDs1659768;[2] 2804436[4]
FIPS Code06-51868

North Fork (formerly Brown's and Northfork; Mono wa?ahhpY', "cedar grove")[5] is an unincorporated community in Madera County, California, United States.[2] As of the 2020 United States census it had a population of 3,250.[3] For statistical purposes, the United States Census Bureau has defined North Fork as a census-designated place (CDP). North Fork is part of the Madera Metropolitan Statistical Area and is home to the tribal headquarters of the Northfork Rancheria of Mono Indians of California.

North Fork is situated in the Sierra Nevada foothills at an elevation of 2,638 feet. It is roughly 46 miles (74 km) miles north-northeast of Fresno, 41 miles (66 km) miles northeast of Madera, and 17 miles (27 km) miles southeast of Oakhurst by road. The CDP has a total area of 32.3 square miles (84 km2) square miles, with Willow Creek, North Fork, and South Fork serving as its primary bodies of water. North Fork also holds the distinction of being the community closest to the geographic center of California.

North Fork is within the ancestral home of the Mono Native Americans. The community developed into a significant hub for the timber industry, which was the mainstay of the local economy until the late 20th century.

Attractions in North Fork include the Sierra Mono Museum and the Sierra Vista Scenic Byway. The Buckhorn Saloon, a mainstay since the 1800s, continues to function as a restaurant and tavern. North Fork is also the site of the annual Mid-Sierra Loggers Jamboree, a tribute to the region's logging history.

Geography

North Fork is located in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada at an elevation of 2,638 feet (804 m).[2] It is 46 miles (74 km) north-northeast of Fresno, 41 miles (66 km) northeast of Madera, and 17 miles (27 km) by road southeast of Oakhurst. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the North Fork CDP has a total area of 32.3 square miles (84 km2), of which 0.04 square miles (0.10 km2), or 0.14%, are water.[1] The community is drained by Willow Creek and by its North Fork and South Fork. Willow Creek is a south-flowing tributary of the San Joaquin River.

The geographic center or midpoint of the state of California is located between North Fork and Italian Bar. The point is about 7.1 miles (11.4 km) driving distance from the United States Forest Service office in North Fork. The location is marked by a sign and a survey marker. The site has wooden stairs leading up the hillside about 50 feet from the road. The marker is not wheelchair accessible.

Climate

North Fork has a Mediterranean climate (Köppen Cfa) with cool, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. Its average annual precipitation is 33.43 in (849 mm).[6] Its hardiness zone is 7b.[7]

North Fork (1981-2010 Normals)
Climate chart (explanation)
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
 
 
6.8
 
 
57
30
 
 
6.1
 
 
59
30
 
 
5.4
 
 
63
35
 
 
2.4
 
 
69
38
 
 
1.5
 
 
78
45
 
 
0.4
 
 
87
52
 
 
0.1
 
 
95
58
 
 
0.1
 
 
95
57
 
 
0.5
 
 
89
52
 
 
1.8
 
 
78
43
 
 
3.6
 
 
65
36
 
 
4.9
 
 
57
31
Average max. and min. temperatures in °F
Precipitation totals in inches
Source:Western Regional Climate Center[6]
Metric conversion
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
 
 
171
 
 
14
−1
 
 
155
 
 
15
−1
 
 
137
 
 
17
2
 
 
60
 
 
20
4
 
 
37
 
 
25
7
 
 
11
 
 
31
11
 
 
3
 
 
35
14
 
 
1.5
 
 
35
14
 
 
12
 
 
32
11
 
 
47
 
 
25
6
 
 
90
 
 
18
2
 
 
124
 
 
14
0
Average max. and min. temperatures in °C
Precipitation totals in mm
Climate data for North Fork RS, California (1945–2023 normals,[lower-alpha 1] extremes 1904–present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °F (°C) 86
(30)
89
(32)
92
(33)
98
(37)
103
(39)
108
(42)
112
(44)
111
(44)
110
(43)
102
(39)
90
(32)
86
(30)
112
(44)
Mean maximum °F (°C) 70
(21)
72
(22)
74
(23)
81
(27)
90
(32)
99
(37)
103
(39)
102
(39)
99
(37)
91
(33)
79
(26)
72
(22)
104
(40)
Mean daily maximum °F (°C) 55.1
(12.8)
56.7
(13.7)
60.5
(15.8)
65.2
(18.4)
74.1
(23.4)
85.2
(29.6)
94.0
(34.4)
93.3
(34.1)
87.4
(30.8)
76.8
(24.9)
63.3
(17.4)
58.3
(14.6)
76.7
(24.8)
Daily mean °F (°C) 42.2
(5.7)
45.1
(7.3)
47.8
(8.8)
51.8
(11.0)
59.1
(15.1)
67.8
(19.9)
75.6
(24.2)
75.0
(23.9)
69.6
(20.9)
60.4
(15.8)
50.1
(10.1)
45.1
(7.3)
62.3
(16.8)
Mean daily minimum °F (°C) 30.0
(−1.1)
32.7
(0.4)
34.8
(1.6)
38.4
(3.6)
44.1
(6.7)
50.7
(10.4)
57.3
(14.1)
56.6
(13.7)
51.7
(10.9)
43.8
(6.6)
36.4
(2.4)
31.6
(−0.2)
42.3
(5.8)
Mean minimum °F (°C) 20
(−7)
22
(−6)
25
(−4)
28
(−2)
33
(1)
39
(4)
49
(9)
48
(9)
41
(5)
33
(1)
26
(−3)
21
(−6)
17
(−8)
Record low °F (°C) 5
(−15)
10
(−12)
15
(−9)
19
(−7)
26
(−3)
30
(−1)
31
(−1)
38
(3)
29
(−2)
19
(−7)
14
(−10)
4
(−16)
4
(−16)
Average precipitation inches (mm) 6.70
(170)
5.71
(145)
5.61
(142)
2.81
(71)
1.41
(36)
0.36
(9.1)
0.08
(2.0)
0.06
(1.5)
0.57
(14)
1.51
(38)
3.16
(80)
5.36
(136)
33.34
(844.6)
Average snowfall inches (cm) 4.6
(12)
2.1
(5.3)
2.0
(5.1)
0.4
(1.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.4
(1.0)
1.8
(4.6)
11.3
(29)
Source: NOAA[8]

History

Native People

Mono couple living near Northfork, California, ca. 1920

North Fork is within the ancestral home lands of the Mono people, who still constitute a significant portion of the population (9.4% according to the 2000 Census).

The Sierra Timber Reserve Act, enacted in February 1893, resulted in the land around North Fork coming under federal control. This left the Mono Indians, who were not recognized as US citizens until 1924, left out. They were unable to pursue their traditional way of life or maintain their newly adopted practice of cattle grazing, finding themselves effectively excluded from their ancestral lands. Faced with these obstacles, many Mono Indians either assimilated into the settler community or dispersed to other areas.[9]:122

Early History

The first permanent community was established as a remote mountain outpost in 1865 when Milton Brown built what is believed to be the first house in the area — a log cabin at the end of a newly-developed wagon road leading from Crane Valley to the north fork of the San Joaquin River. Serving as a supply point, Brown catered to stockmen, sheepmen, and miners who left their wagons under his care while venturing further into the mountains. Consequently, the location was often referred to as "Brown's Place."[9]:115–117

A significant shift in the settlement's trajectory occurred in 1886 with the establishment of a sawmill on Peckinpah Mountain by Milton Brown and his partner, John Bartram. This venture marked the foundation of the North Fork Lumber Company, which would play a pivotal role in the community's evolution. By 1887, the company had established a post office under the name North Fork, subsequently bestowing the settlement with its present-day name.[10]

The small settlement, which primarily consisted of a few stores, hotels, and a watering trough, was home to a population consisting mostly of miners and hog-rearing stockmen. The Fresno Morning Republican once described the area as "a bleak little mountain center," emphasizing its isolation from valley towns such as Friant and Madera.[11]

Sam Peckinpah, the renowned director, drew inspiration from his youth spent on his grandparents' ranch in North Fork. His grandparents, Mr. and Mrs. Charles M. Peckinpah, settled in North Fork in 1884, and the name "Peckinpah Mountain" pays homage to their former sawmill site.[12] Peckinpah, born in 1925, channeled his family's experiences during the Wild West period into his Western films and TV series, including Ride the High Country (1962) and The Wild Bunch (1969). The town of North Fork in The Rifleman TV series, which Peckinpah created, is named after the real-life North Fork.[13]

Forestry

In 1902, North Fork became the pivotal hub for the Sierra Reserves, which later evolved into today's Sierra National Forest, when Charles H. Shinn became the head ranger. North Fork's central geographical location, nestled within the expansive territory of the Sierra Reserves that stretched from Tuolumne County in the north to Kern County in the south, made it an ideal choice for the organization's headquarters.[11]:18 The supervisor's office held a steady presence in North Fork, acting as the heart of the reserves, until it was eventually moved to Clovis in 1989.[11]:168

Lumber Industry

During the years of the Great Depression, the commercial logging activities in eastern Madera County faced an abrupt halt, leading to the discontinuation of logging railroads. Notably, the Sugar Pine Lumber Company, which operated in the mountainous region above North Fork, ceased its operations in 1933.[14]

In 1941, the Associated Box and Lumber company acquired a 135 acres (55 ha) plot of land and relocated its operations from Bieber, to North Fork by 1942. This move marked a transformative moment for the town, as it ushered in a new era of logging that lasted for over fifty years. The adoption of logging trucks and advanced equipment enabled the industry to penetrate deeper into the Sierra National Forest, expanding its reach and efficiency.

Despite the incomplete construction and undeveloped logging roads, the sawmill's operations kicked off in 1942. By April 1, 1943, the first log was successfully processed into lumber. The North Fork mill processed over nine million board feet of lumber in its first year, primarily logging ponderosa pine, sugar pine, lodgepole pine, and incense cedar from the Sierra National Forest.[15]

The mill's establishment marked a significant transformation for North Fork. By 1951, the population had grown to over 2,000 residents.[16] The mill had become a major employment center, offering jobs to over 130 workers during peak periods and injecting approximately $500,000 in payroll into the community.[17] Despite the considerable circulation of currency among its rugged inhabitants, North Fork lacked a banking institution.[18]

The mill complex included a sawmill, planing mill, lumber storage, workshops, and employee accommodations.[19] The employee accommodations, located across the road from the mill, consisted of twenty-two two-bedroom homes available for rent. By 1968, the mill's annual payroll had risen to $1,250,000, underscoring the significance of logging to the local economy.

In 1985, Ron Yanke purchased the mill, renaming it South Fork Timber Industries. Between 1985 and 1991, the mill processed an average of 143 million board feet annually, enough to build about 12,000 single-family homes.[20][21]

In 1986, a cogeneration plant was added to the mill operations. This plant used sawdust to fuel boilers and generate electricity. Excess power was sold to public utility companies, and the mill started processing bark into humus and selling ash as a fertilizer.[20]

New government regulations led to a decrease in the forest's yield by 1992, falling to 63.8 million board feet by 1993. The additional costs and restrictions rendered lumber production unprofitable, causing the mill to close and layoffs to begin as early as 1991. The last log was processed on February 25, 1994.[20]

Economy

Until 1996, the timber industry was the backbone of North Fork's economy, with the local lumber mill serving as the town's main source of livelihood.[22]

The US Forest Service Crane Valley Hotshots, a crew of wildland firefighters, remain based in North Fork.[23]

Arts and culture

The Sierra Mono Museum showcases the local history and culture.[24] The town also serves as the starting point for the Sierra Vista Scenic Byway, a route known for its stunning views of the Sierra Nevada.[25]

The Buckhorn Saloon.

The Buckhorn Saloon, a fixture since the late 1800s, evolved into a dude ranch in the 1950s. It catered to fishing and hunting parties during their respective seasons, as well as local loggers.[26] Known for its rough-and-tumble patrons, it's proprietor was jailed for six months in the 1950s for firing a .45 caliber pistol at a patron.[27][28] Today, it continues to operate as a restaurant and western saloon.

A historical marker, established by E Clampus Vitus, signifies the location of the stagecoach stop in the downtown area.[29] The geographical center of the state of California resides between North Fork and Italian Bar. The exact center, marked by a sign and a survey marker, is approximately 7.1 miles (11.4 km) driving distance from the United States Forest Service office in North Fork.[30]

Initiated in 1959, the North Fork Loggers Jamboree began as a regional lumberjack competition open to loggers from seven local counties held annually on the first weekend in July.[31] The event included a loggersports competition, a main street parade, and a beauty pageant.[32] With the closure of the local mill in the 1990s, the event, now known as the Mid-Sierra Loggers Jamboree, has evolved into a tribute to the enduring legacy of logging in the region.[33]

Notable people

See also

References

  1. 1 2 "2021 U.S. Gazetteer Files: California". United States Census Bureau. Retrieved June 28, 2022.
  2. 1 2 3 4 U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: North Fork
  3. 1 2 "P1. Race – North Fork CDP, California: 2020 DEC Redistricting Data (PL 94-171)". U.S. Census Bureau. Retrieved June 28, 2022.
  4. U.S. Geological Survey Geographic Names Information System: North Fork Census Designated Place
  5. Sydney M. Lamb. 1957. Mono Grammar. University of California. Berkeley PhD dissertation. .pdf
  6. 1 2 "Western Regional Climate Center: 1981-2010 monthly climate summary for North Fork". Retrieved October 24, 2014.
  7. "Plantmaps: Zip Code 93643 North Fork Hardiness Zone and Gardening Info". Retrieved October 24, 2014.
  8. "NOWData - NOAA Online Weather Data". NOAA. Retrieved August 9, 2023.
  9. 1 2 Lee, Gaylen D. (1998). Walking Where We Lived: Memoirs of a Mono Indian Family. University of Oklahoma Press. ISBN 0-8061-3087-3.
  10. "Horse Stage from Madera Only Means of Access To North Fork District in Early Day Activity". Madera Tribune. September 28, 1948. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  11. 1 2 3 Rose, Gene (1994). Sierra Centennial: 100 Years of Pioneering on the Sierra National Forest. Three Forests Interpretive Association. ISBN 0-944194-31-1.
  12. "Peckinpah Mountain Reunion Scene". Madera Tribune. Vol. 70, no. 41. July 12, 1961.
  13. "How a Gold Rush Era Lumber Town Struck Gold a Second Time". Sierra News Online. April 24, 2023.
  14. "Lumber Company Built a Railroad Instead of a Flume". Madera Tribune. Madera, California. June 11, 1968. Retrieved September 29, 2022.
  15. "Mammoth Road Extension Slated". Madera Tribune. October 16, 1956. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  16. "First Log Sawed in 1943 North Fork Logging Boomed in 40s and 50s". Madera Tribune. September 25, 1951. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  17. "County Is Named For Industry". Madera Tribune. September 21, 1954. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  18. "North Fork to Expand with New Program". Madera Tribune. Vol. LV, no. 81. June 5, 1947. Retrieved June 25, 2023 via California Digital Newspaper Collection.
  19. "Lumber Experience Possessed By Men Of Associated Box". Madera Tribune. September 22, 1953. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  20. 1 2 3 "North Fork's Prominence As A Mill Town Began In The 1940s". Sierra News Online. June 22, 2012. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  21. "Mill Site History". North Fork Community Development Council. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  22. "North Fork, California". sierranevadageotourism.org. Retrieved May 19, 2020.
  23. "South Ops National Interagency Hotshot Crew". US Forest Service. December 22, 2016. Retrieved June 27, 2023.
  24. "The Sierra Mono Museum". Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  25. "Sierra Vista Scenic Byway". Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  26. "County's Resorts Seem To Have Nearly Everything". Madera Tribune. Vol. 65, no. 107. September 18, 1956. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  27. "Find Smith Guilty Of Assault". Madera Tribune. Vol. Number 96. May 23, 1952. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  28. "Smith Sentenced To 6 Months Jail". Madera Tribune. Vol. Number 110. June 10, 1952. Retrieved June 25, 2023.
  29. Clugston, Gina (April 6, 2016). "Clampers Add North Fork To Historic Monument Sites". Sierra News Online. Retrieved June 26, 2023.
  30. "Exact Center of California: North Fork". Sierra Nevada Geotourism. Retrieved June 26, 2023.
  31. "Big Day In North Fork July 6". Madera Tribune. Vol. 72, no. 32. June 27, 1963. Retrieved June 26, 2023.
  32. "Large Crowd Attends Loggers Jamboree". Madera Tribune. Vol. 77, no. 43. July 12, 1968. Retrieved June 26, 2023.
  33. Flanagan, Kellie (July 6, 2019). "Ladies And Gentlemen Grab Your Axes: 60th Annual Mid-Sierra Loggers Jamboree". Sierra News Online. Retrieved June 26, 2023.

Notes

  1. Mean monthly maxima and minima (i.e. the expected highest and lowest temperature readings at any point during the year or given month) calculated based on data at said location from 1945 to 2023.
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