Hmm...I was able to find three evaluation boards under $100 pretty quickly:
$79: http://www.terasic.com.tw/cgi-bin/page/archive.pl?Language=English&No=593
$79: http://www.arrownac.com/solutions/bemicro-sdk/
$89: http://www.xilinx.com/products/boards-and-kits/AES-S6MB-LX9.htm
As to what to look for in an evaluation board, that depends entirely on what you want to do. If you have a specific design task to accomplish, you want a board that supports as many of the same functions and I/O as your final circuit. You can get boards with various memory options (SRAM, DDR2, DDR3, Flash, etc), Ethernet, PCI/PCIe bus, high-speed optical transceivers, and more. If you just want to get started, just about any board will work for you. Virtually anything sold today should have enough space for even non-trivial example designs (ie: build your own microcontroller with a soft-core CPU and design/select-your-own peripheral mix).
Even if your board only has a few switches and LEDs you can get started designing a hardware "Hello World" (a.k.a. the blinking LED :), simple state machines, and many other applications. Where you start and what you try to do should depend on your overall goals. If you're just looking to gain general experience with FPGAs, I suggest:
- Start with any of low-cost evaluation boards
- Run through their demo application (typically already programmed into the HW) to get familiar with what it does
- Build the demo program from source and verify it works to get familiar with the FPGA tool chain
- Modify the demo application in some way to get familiar with designing hardware for FPGAs
- Use your new-found experience to determine what to try next
As for the market continuing to use FPGAs, they are definitely here to stay, but that does not mean they are suitable for every application. An MCU by itself is fine for many applications, but cannot handle everything. For example, you can easily "bit-bang" an I2C or even serial UART with most micro-controllers, but you would be hard pressed to talk to an Ethernet port, a VGA display, or a PCI/PCIe bus without some custom hardware. It's up to you to decide how to mix the available technology (MCUs, FPGAs, custom logic designed in-house, licensed IP cores, off-the-shelf standard hardware chips, etc) to create a functional product or device, and there typically isn't any single 'right' answer.